Christmas in Poland is one of the most important times of the year, almost more so than in other countries. Poland used to be a multi-religious place until the Counter-Reformation around 500 years ago that included decrees that if you wanted to be a noble, you had to be Catholic.
This made little sense to most of the country as Catholics only made up about 40 per cent of the population, but it was a way for those in power to try and concentrate power towards themselves and their cronies.
Anyway, the seeds of this legacy in one way or another has wounded up with around 95 per cent of the nation today claiming they’re Catholic.
With these sorts of numbers, you’ll be unsurprised to hear that Christmas is kind of a big deal in Poland. Let’s take a look at some of their traditions.
1. The cribs are ornate and don’t just feature the Baby Jesus
Christmas cribs, or szopki, are dioramas depicting something Christmassy, and you’ll see them everywhere in December. These aren’t your normal Jesus-in-a-manger-with-donkeys scenes, but lavish and complicated satirical diaramas that feature famous Poles from history and the modern era amongst well-known Polish buildings.
A baby Jesus is usually in there somewhere too, of course. Although they’re rooted in religion, the tradition of szopki in Poland has always been used as a commentary on society and to such an extent that in the 17th-century churches banned these Christmas cribs from being displayed on their grounds. These days there is no such ban and you’ll see plenty of more religious szopki outside churches.
Every year the city of Krakow holds a famous competition for building szopki and the entries are all then displayed in a exhibition in the centre of town. Needless to say, the competition is a delightfully amusing and idiosynchractically Polish attraction. If you’re in Warsaw, you’ll see plenty of szopki too, especially on Miodowa Street near the Old Town.
2. There is food. Lots and lots of food
Christmas Eve in Poland is known as Wigilia and is meant to be a meatless day spent with the family and an exchange of presents. “No meat?!” we hear you weep. Seriously, when you have to try and tackle 12 courses, you don’t want dense wads of meat in amongst it all.
A good proportion of the courses are fish. Carp used to be the main event but it’s gone out of fashion because ecologists complain it doesn’t fit with their natural breeding cycle.
Baked or fried salmon is very common nowadays, and you can’t beat good old pickled herring in an assortment of delicious and sometimes bizarre preparations.
Beetroot soup with little pasta “ears” is almost guaranteed, and cabbage with mushrooms on the side will make an appearance. There’ll be poppyseed cakes for dessert as well as the obligatory chocolates. Pure gluttony.
3. Jesus is centre stage but it’s all about family really
There is, of course, a religious aspect to proceedings. It’s not too in-your-face and is mainly about being familial. At the start of the eating endurance test, diners will break oplatek together – a flat yeastless wafer with religious imagery set into it.
As they break it, they wish each other a good year and, oddly, forgive each other for all the grievances that are assumed to be between everybody.
After the onerous eating and exchange of gifts, Poles head to church for midnight mass, also known as pasterka. Despite many being worse for wear at this point in the evening, you’ll often see churches stuffed with people.
4. Christmas markets sell grzaniec galicyjski*
Winter markets are all over eastern Europe and are fast becoming popular in western parts too. Their inescapable wooded charm has made them one of the German traditions that Poles are fond of.
Warsaw features a picturesque snowy market in the Old Town, and Gdansk a very inviting one in the Coal Market, but the large medieval squares in Krakow and Wroclaw are the most stunning when warming yourself with a mulled wine.
5. There are Nativity plays in the street
Seasonal depictions aren’t restricted to szopki – you’ll see lots of street performers dressing up as religious figures and reenacting the nativity around towns.
You’re likely to doubletake when you notice a veiled pregnant lady on a donkey being led around by a robed bearded man, but there’s no need to drop to your knees and convert – it’s just some Poles doing something seasonal, no need to pay them any mind.
6. The carol service out-carols any other country’s carols
Christmas carols, or koledy, are a big part of Poland’s yuletide proceedings. There are people warbling all over the place, not just in the winter markets.
There’s a large annual carol-singing competition in Krakow, with entrant choirs coming from around the world to compete.
Held over three days in various churches, including the blinged-out St Mariacki’s, the event will have you feeling very Christmassy indeed.
Away from official events, you’ll see kolednicy everywhere, namly small groups of children singing carols in costumes. Each child dresses as a traditional character – one as an angel, another as an auroch (an extinct type of bison), one will be dressed as the grim reaper and another as a devil.
It seems a bit more Hallowe’en than Christmas as they’re supposed to scare charitable donations out of people – something surely unnecessary during the season of giving!
* That’s mulled wine, strong and sweet.
